20.500.12556/DKUM-13585 VPLIV SNOVNIH LASTNOSTI TKANIN NA TOPLOTNO FIZIOLOŠKO UDOBJE OBLAČIL INFLUENCE OF FABRIC PROPERTIES OF THERMAL PHYSIOLOGICAL COMFORT OF CLOTHING Za današnjega kupca ni dovolj, da oblačila izpolnjujejo le osnovne funkcije kot so zaščita telesa in funkcionalnost, ampak se od izdelanega oblačila pričakuje, da izpolnjuje modne zahteve, in to glede na obliko, barvo in material in da se človek v njem počuti udobno, privlačno in sproščeno. Udobnost pri nošenju je pomembna kvalitativna karakteristika oblačila, ki se sestoji iz treh komponent, katere je potrebno optimirati že pri konstrukciji tekstilij in oblačil. To so: toplotno fiziološka, ergonomska in mehanska udobnost pri nošenju. Na občutek udobja vpliva večje število dejavnikov, kot npr. vrsta materiala, iz katerega je izdelano oblačilo in njegove karakteristike (surovinski sestav, površinska masa, otip, mehanske, fizikalne in toplotne lastnosti) ter konstrukcija kroja in struktura oblačila. Udobnost pri nošenju oblačil je rezultat uravnoteženega procesa izmenjave toplote med telesom, oblačilom in okolico in je odvisna od toplotnih lastnosti oblačil, katere predstavljajo njihovo sposobnost prenosa toplote in vlage s površine človeškega telesa v okolico. Veličine, ki so odraz te sposobnosti, so toplotni upor ali toplotna izolacija oblačil Rc in upor oblačila proti prehodu vodne pare Re. S tematskega vidika je v okviru disertacije obravnavan študij vpliva snovnih lastnosti tkanin za letna ženska oblačila na toplotno fiziološko udobje pri nošenju v toplem okolju, ki ustreza visokim letnim temperaturam. Za ta namen je bilo na podlagi plana raziskave in definiranih materialov (iz naravnih vlaken (lan, bombaž), sintetičnih (poliester) in njihovih mešanic) izdelanih pet tkanin približno enakih konstrukcijskih parametrov, vendar različne surovinske sestave. Na podlagi raziskave fizikalnih, toplotnih in mehanskih lastnosti izdelanih tkanin ter proučitve pokritosti telesa z oblačilom sta bila oblikovana dva modela ženskih oblačil za toplo okolje in izdelana prototipa oblikovanih modelov oblačil. Raziskava vpliva snovnih lastnosti tkanin na toplotno fiziološko udobje pri nošenju oblačil je bila izvedena pri različnih klimatskih pogojih, umetno vzdrževanih v klima-komori, tj. pri treh temperaturah okolice (25 °C, 30 °C in 35 °C) in hitrostih gibanja vetra (0,2 ms-1, 0,5 ms-1 in 1,2 ms-1) ter pri konstantni relativni vlažnosti 40 %, kjer so testne osebe izvajale v naprej opredeljene aktivnosti (20 min aklimatizacija, 20 min hoja po ravnem v smeri vetra s hitrostjo 2,5 km h-1, 5 min odmor in 20 min hoja s hitrostjo 3 km h-1 v smeri vetra). Klimatski pogoji so bili določeni na podlagi podatkov Hidrometeorološkega zavoda v Banja Luki, in sicer za povprečne letne temperature štirih poletnih mesecev, zabeležene v zadnjih treh letih. Vpliv snovnih lastnosti v oblačila vgrajenih materialov na toplotno fiziološko udobje uporabnika je eksperimentalno določen kot sprememba treh fizioloških parametrov: ponderirane temperature kože, srčne frekvence in količine evaporiranega znoja oziroma vlažnosti kože in količine akumuliranega znoja v oblačilih, medtem ko je vpliv posameznih toplotnih lastnosti oblačil na subjektivni občutek udobja določen s pomočjo ocenjevalnih skal v obliki vprašalnikov, na katere so testne osebe odgovarjale pred, med in po raziskavi. Na podlagi rezultatov raziskave fizikalnih, mehanskih, toplotnih in sorbcijskih lastnosti v oblačila vgrajenih tkanin ter rezultatov raziskane količine akumuliranega znoja v analiziranih modelih pri nošenju oblačil je ugotovljeno, da je količina akumuliranega znoja odvisna od snovnih lastnosti tkanin (površinske mase, relativne vlažnosti tkanin, zračne prepustnosti in sposobnosti zadrževanja vode). Odvisnost količine v oblačilih akumuliranega znoja od snovnih lastnosti vgrajenih tkanin, tj. od mase in relativne vlažnosti tkanin, mase in sposobnosti zadrževanja vode ter zračne prepustnosti in sposobnosti zadrževanja vode, je statistično potrjena, in sicer za vse tri kombinacije analiziranih lastnosti v oblačila vgrajenih tkanin. For today's buyer it is not enough that clothing satisfies only basic functions, such as body protection and functionality. It is expected that clothing satisfies fashion demands such as shape, colour and material. Furthermore, the clothing should assure us to feel comfortable, attractive and relaxed. Comfort while wearing is important clothing qualitative characteristic mainly consisting of these three components, which should be optimized according to textile and clothing construction: thermo-physiological, ergonomic and mechanical comfort while wearing. Various number of factors have impact on sense of a comfort as in an example: kind of the material, which is used in garment production (raw material, surface mass, treatment type, touch, physical, mechanical and thermal features), construction of the clothing cut and other. The comfort while wearing the clothing represents the result of a balanced process heat exchange between the body, clothing and environment and depends on special thermal characteristics of clothing that represent its ability to transfer heat and moisture from the surface of the human body in the environment. The measuring magnitudes, which are the reflection of those abilities, are thermal resistance or thermal insulation of the clothing Rc and clothing water vapour resistance Re. With regard to the doctoral thesis the influence of the material properties for summer women’s clothing on thermo-physiological comfort while wearing in warm environment was investigated. The warm environment corresponds to high summer temperatures. For this purpose five fabrics were manufactured according to the plan of experiment and defined materials (natural fibres (linen, cotton), synthetic (polyester) and mixtures thereof), which have approximately equal surface mass, but different raw material. Based on the research of physical, thermal and mechanical properties of the manufactured fabrics, and research of the body covering with the clothing on thermophysiological comfort, the two models of women’s clothing for warm environment were designed and manufactured. Investigation of the influence of fabrics properties on thermo-physiological comfort of clothing was performed at different climatic conditions that were artificially set up in climate chamber, i.e. at three ambient temperatures (25 oC, 30 oC and 35 oC), wind movement velocities (0,2 ms-1, 0,5 ms-1 and 1,2 ms-1) and at constant relative humidity of 40 %, where the tested persons carried out the following activities (20 min acclimatization, 20 min flat walking in the direction of wind at velocity of 2,5 kmh-1, 5 min rest and 20 min walking of velocity of 3 kmh-1 in the direction of wind). Climate conditions were determined according to the data from Hydrometric institute of Banjaluka. The average summer temperatures, noted for four months in the last three months, were applied. The influence of the clothing fabrics on thermo-physiological comfort was experimentally determined as a change of the three physiological parameters: average skin temperature, heart rate and amount of evaporated sweat, resp. skin humidity and amount of accumulated sweat in the clothing. The impact of the individual thermal clothing characteristics on subjective perception of the comfort was established by questionnaire with special scales by appreciation. The tested persons were answering before, during and after the investigation. Based on research results of the physical, mechanical, thermal and sorption properties of the clothing fabrics and results of the evaporated sweat amount in the analysed models while wearing the clothes it is established that evaporated sweat amount depends on the woven fabrics’ properties (surface mass, fabrics’ relative humidity, air permeability and water retention). Dependence of the amount of accumulated sweat for three combinations of fabric properties, namely from surface mass and fabric relative humidity, furthermore from fabric surface mass and water retention, as well as from air permeabilit tkanina snovne lastnosti sorbcijske lastnosti toplotne lastnosti oblačil udobje fiziološki parametri človeka subjektivni občutek fabric properties of matter sorption properties thermal properties of clothing comfort physiological human parameters subjective perception true true false D. Grujić] Slovenski jezik Angleški jezik Doktorska disertacija 2010-04-01 09:53:38 2010-05-06 09:50:17 2022-04-12 11:19:11 2023-12-16 03:21:34 2010 0 [Maribor 0 0000-00-00 NiDoloceno NiDoloceno NiDoloceno 0000-00-00 0000-00-00 0000-00-00 62 250398720 URN:SI:UM:DK:V3S1KPXZ DR_Grujic_Dragana_2010.pdf DR_Grujic_Dragana_2010.pdf 1 F78C809E188913EE57DD273C1CEE43BB f50633028d65fa9424fd38a02e76749c06e1ee3fe04bef6adc1d0935b1aad06f f0f46d4c-7c03-11eb-bb7a-00155d0001ca 20.500.12556/dkum/c3dc5c7d-950f-4b2f-b489-3da812e1f378 https://dk.um.si/Dokument.php?lang=slv&id=13846 Fakulteta za strojništvo 0 0 0