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Title:OBLAČILNA KULTURA 19. STOLETJA NA SLOVENSKEM ŠTAJERSKEM, V PRIMERJAVI S HRVAŠKIM ZAGORJEM
Authors:ID Krajger, Lucija (Author)
ID Kos Zabel, Mateja (Mentor) More about this mentor... New window
Files:.pdf UN_Pavlekovic_Lucija_2016.pdf (1,51 MB)
MD5: 6A126FC06727CBA6322C6860CFCA02DF
 
Language:Slovenian
Work type:Bachelor thesis/paper
Typology:2.11 - Undergraduate Thesis
Organization:FF - Faculty of Arts
Abstract:Dolgo 19. stoletje je obdobje, ko so se v svetu mode zgodile številne spremembe. Največji vpliv na to je imela francoska revolucija ob koncu 18. stoletja, kasneje pa je bil bistven razvoj industrije, ki je omogočil cenejšo in hitrejšo proizvodnjo blaga za izdelovanje oblačil. Pozneje se je razvila tudi konfekcija, ki je oblačila še pocenila ter jih naredila dostopna širši množici ljudi. Konfekcijska oblačila so prav tako zmanjšala razliko v oblačilnem videzu med različnimi družbenimi sloji. V začetku stoletja so prevladovala oblačila, ki so bila osvobojena neudobnih steznikov in krinolin, s časom pa so se ti kosi vrnili v modo. Sredi stoletja so ponovno prevladovala oblačila, ki so močno spominjala na modo 18. stoletja. Stezniki, ki so bili ob dolgotrajni noši škodljivi za notranje organe, in nepraktične krinoline so bili ponovno opuščeni na prelomu 20. stoletja. Takrat so se pojavila reformirana, udobnejša in preprostejša ženska oblačila. Moška moda se skozi stoletje ni spreminjala tako drastično kot ženska. V prvi polovici stoletja je prišlo do opustitve dokolenskih hlač, prevladale pa so dolge in oprijete hlače, imenovane pantalone. Najpomembnejši moški kos oblačila v celem stoletju je bil frak, ob koncu stoletja pa se je pojavil smoking, ki je aktualen še danes. Štajersko meščanstvo in plemstvo je modo večjih evropskih modnih središč posnemalo skoraj sočasno, morda le v nekoliko skromnejši in bolj zadržani izvedbi. Največji vpliv na oblačilni videz prebivalstva Štajerske je imel zagotovo cesarski Dunaj. Pomembna so bila tudi bližnja velika mesta, kot sta Gradec in Trst. Moda se je v naše kraje širila predvsem z modnim tiskom, ki je objavljal grafike najnovejših smernic velikih modnih prestolnic. Na tem področju ni zaostajalo niti hrvaško Zagorje, kjer se je moda razvijala sočasno s tisto na Štajerskem.
Keywords:moda, oblačilni videz, krinolina, steznik, Štajerska, Zagorje, 19. stoletje, šivalni stroj, konfekcijska oblačila, materiali
Place of publishing:Maribor
Publisher:[L. Pavleković]
Year of publishing:2016
PID:20.500.12556/DKUM-62804 New window
UDC:391(497.4:497.5)"18"(043.2)
COBISS.SI-ID:22559240 New window
NUK URN:URN:SI:UM:DK:E8OOXWQC
Publication date in DKUM:21.09.2016
Views:4370
Downloads:298
Metadata:XML DC-XML DC-RDF
Categories:FF
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:19TH CENTURY CLOTHING IN SLOVENIAN STYRIA IN COMPARISON WITH CROATIAN ZAGORJE
Abstract:Long 19th century was a period of numerous changes in the world of fashion. At first the French revolution was the largest influence on fashion, but later on, the development of industry became essential, because it enabled cheaper and faster production of materials. Following the development of the industry, confection appeared which further lowered the price of clothes and made them available to bigger masses of people. Confection also reduced the differences in fashion among various social classes. At the beginning of the century, simple and light clothes prevailed, freed of corsets and crinolines, which became fashionable once more later on. Clothes and fashion of the mid- 19th century strongly resembled that of the previous century. Corsets that were damaging to the internal organs, if worn for a longer period of time, and impractical crinolines were neglected once again at the break of the 20th century, when women’s clothing was reformed and it became more comfortable and simpler. Men’s clothing did not change as dramatically as women’s during the same period of time. In the first few years of the 19th century knickerbockers fell out of fashion and were substituted by tight pants named pantaloons. The most important piece of men’s clothing in the 19th century was the tailcoat, which was later replaced with tuxedo that is still fashionable today. The nobility and bourgeoisie of Styria followed the fashion trends of larger European cities almost simultaneously. The only difference was that the clothes were slightly more modest and conservative. Vienna had the largest influence of Styrian fashion, but cities such as Graz and Trieste were also important. Fashion trends spread mainly through fashion magazines, which published graphics of the latest trends in European fashion capitals. Fashion of Croatian Zagorje was developing simultaneously with Styrian fashion.
Keywords:fashion, style, crinoline, corset, Styria, Zagorje, 19th century, sewing machine, confection, materials


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